Physics of Photography

This page is from a Physics teacher who is interested in Photography and is trying to consolidate here some of the science and theory behind capturing images on a camera.

This page is still a work-in-progress.

Parts of a Camera

(INSERT PICTURE OF CAMERA)

 

SLR, DSLR & Mirrorless

Old film cameras were usually SLR (Single-Lens Reflex) cameras.

In this type of camera:

    • “Single-lens” → The same lens is used both to preview the scene and to take the photo.

    • “Reflex” → A mirror reflects the light from the lens up into an optical viewfinder, so you’re seeing exactly what the lens sees.

Mirrorless Cameras

A mirrorless camera (most modern digital cameras) removes the mirror entirely.

Light passes straight from the lens → to the image sensor.

The sensor’s signal is shown on an electronic viewfinder (EVF) or the rear screen.

So you’re seeing a live digital preview, not an optical image.

Feature SLR (DSLR) Mirrorless
Viewfinder Optical (via mirror and prism) Electronic (via sensor)
Size & Weight Bulkier (mirror + prism) Smaller & lighter
Shutter Lag Slight delay (mirror flip) Faster, no mirror movement
Noise/Vibration Mirror slap causes vibration Quieter, no moving mirror
Autofocus (Older models) Phase-detection via mirror module On-sensor (contrast or hybrid)
Battery life Usually longer Shorter (EVF uses power)
Durability (mechanical) More moving parts Fewer moving parts
Real-time exposure preview No (optical only) Yes (what-you-see-is-what-you-get)

Aperture

In photography, the aperture is the opening in a camera lens that controls how much light enters the camera and reaches the sensor (or film). It’s like the pupil of your eye — it can get wider to let in more light or narrower to let in less.

Aperture Controls Exposure

A larger aperture (wider opening) lets in more light. This will resut in a brighter image.

A smaller aperture (narrower opening) will let in less light. This will result in a darker image.

Aperture Controls Depth of Field (DoF)

Large aperture (small ƒ-number) → shallow depth of field → subject in focus, background blurry.

Small aperture (large ƒ-number) → deep depth of field → most of the scene in focus.

ƒ-stop

The “size” of the aperture in photography is measured by the ƒ-stop (ƒ-number). You have likely seen values such as ƒ/2.8 or ƒ/8 on a lens. These are telling you the “size” of the aperture of the lens.

ƒ/4 should be read as  ef-four or ef-stop-four.

A smaller number like ƒ/2.8 or ƒ/4 corresponds to a LARGE aperture, and thus lets in more light.

A bigger number like ƒ/16 or ƒ/22 corresponds to a SMALL aperture, and thus lets in very little light.

 

The ƒ-stop is calculated by the relationship:

ƒ-stop=ƒ / D

where

ƒ = focal length of the lens

D = diameter of the aperture

The light intensity (amount of light) entering the lens is proportional to the area of the aperture, which goes as D2.

So, to double the light, the diameter must increase by a factor of √2, and to halve the light, it must decrease by √2. A change like this is referred to as a change of one stop.

ƒ-NUMBER Relative Light Change
ƒ/1.4 1× (baseline)
ƒ/2 1/2× ↓ one stop
ƒ/2.8 1/4× ↓ one stop
ƒ/4 1/8× ↓ one stop
ƒ/5.6 1/16× ↓ one stop
ƒ/8 1/32× ↓ one stop
ƒ/11 1/64× ↓ one stop
ƒ/16 1/128× ↓ one stop
ƒ/22 1/256× ↓ one stop

The above table lists the ƒ-stop values we will commonly find on a camera in order from largest aperture, ƒ/1.4, to smallest aperture, ƒ/22. As we move each step (1 stop) down the table we are halving the amount of light that the lens lets in.

 

If you change your aperture from f/4 → f/2.8,
you’re opening up by one stop → letting in twice as much light.

If you change from f/4 → f/5.6,
you’re closing down by one stop → letting in half as much light.

 

Most cameras (lenses) have ƒ-numbers ₋divided into smaller changes – typically ⅓-stop intervals such as this:

ƒ/1.4, ƒ/1.6, ƒ/1.8,
ƒ/2, ƒ/2.2, ƒ/2.5,
ƒ/2.8, ƒ/3.2, ƒ/3.5,
ƒ/4, ƒ/4.5, ƒ/5.0,
ƒ/5.6, ƒ/6.3, ƒ/7.1,
ƒ/8, ƒ/9, ƒ/10,
ƒ/11, ƒ/13, ƒ/14,
ƒ/16

So to change by one stop we would need to adjust the lens through 3 clicks – e.g. ƒ/2.8 → ƒ/3.2 → ƒ/3.5 → ƒ/4 would be a closing down one stop.

Aperture to Describe a Lens

In general, the more light a lens can let in, the better the lens. So better lenses tend to have smaller ƒ-numbers for their maximum aperture. A large aperture allows the lens to be used in darker conditions and produces more bokeh if desired.

So a 50mm ƒ/2 lens would usually be more expensive and would offer more flexibility in terms of the photography options than a 50mm ƒ/4 lens. The ƒ/2 lens being 2 stops faster than the ƒ/4 lens can actually let in 4 times as much light.

 

 

 

Film and Sensor Sizes

The film sensor is the part of the camera that is sensitive to light and captures the image when activated. The sensor replaces film from old film cameras.

Film cameras took many different sizes and formats of film over the years. However, by far the most common for more than 50 years has been the 35 mm format. 35 mm film is so called because the width of the film is 35 mm. Due to the sprockets (holes) on the edge of the film that are used to pull the film through the camera, the actual image the gets captured on the film is 24 mm by 36 mm. This size is nowadays referred to as full-frame.

 

 

You can see that the area of this will be 24 x 36 = 864 mm²

Note that the aspect ratio of this 36:24 = 3:2 is the common aspect ratio for many modern cameras. If an image is taken with a different aspect ratio then it will not be using 100% of the sensor and so will show show loss of resolution or quality.

Many high-end modern cameras tend to use film sensors of this same size. They tend to refer to themselves as full-frame cameras.

Cheaper cameras will use smaller sensors as the cost savings can be dramatic.

Common smaller sensor sizes are:

APS-C (which used in many mid-range DSLR and mirrorless cameras) has a 24 mm by 16 mm giving a sensor area of 384 mm².

Micro 4/3 (which used in many entry level mirrorless cameras) has a 17 mm by 13 mm giving a sensor area of ~220 mm².

Micro 4/3 should be read as micro-four-thirds

Notice these all still have the same 3:2 aspect ratio for the frame.

Crop Factor

Using the same focal length lens  on a smaller-sensor camera means less of the scene gets captured — the sensor “crops” the image more, so the image looks more “zoomed in” (narrower field of view) compared to a larger sensor.

Lenses are compared against the image on a full-frame camera.

A 50 mm lens on an APS-C camera body will generate an image similar, in terms of field-of-view, to a 75 mm lens on a full-frame camera. Thus the APS-C camera is said to have a crop factor of 1.5 ( 75÷50=1.5).

When people say “on this crop-sensor body the 50 mm acts like a 75 mm”, what they mean is for the field of view, not that the focal length physically changes. The lens is still 50 mm.

Sensor Crop Factor FoV EFFECT
Full-Frame 1.0x Reference
APS-C ~1.5x Narrower FoV
Micro 4/3 ~2.0x Even narrower FoV

Field of View

Field of View (FoV) in cameras describes how much of a scene the camera can see. It depends mainly on:

    • Sensor size
    • Lens focal length

The FoV is measured in degrees.

Some typical examples for different lenses are shown below:

Lens FoV (FULL-FRAME) FoV (APS-C)
16 mm ~100° ~78°
24 mm ~74° ~54°
35 mm ~54° ~38°
50 mm ~40° ~27°
85 mm ~24° ~16°
200 mm ~10° ~7°

Typical Focal Lengths Used in Different Types of Photography

Situation Ideal FoV
Landscape Wide (12–35mm)
Street / general Normal (35–85mm)
Portrait Narrow (85–135mm)
Wildlife / sports Telephoto (200mm+)

Shutter Speed

Shutter speed is the duration (time) for which the camera shutter remains open to allow light to hit the sensor.

  • It controls exposure (amount of light captured)
  • It influences motion blur (how movement appears in the image)

Shutter speed is measured in seconds or fractions of a second:

Common examples:

    • Fast: 1/4000 s, 1/1000 s, 1/250 s

    • Medium: 1/60 s, 1/30 s

    • Slow: 1 s, 5 s, 30 s

Cameras will typically have the following shutter speeds:

4 s, 2 s, 1 s, 0.5 s, 1/4 s, 1/8 s, 1/15 s, 1/30 s, 1/60 s, 1/125 s, 1/250 s, 1/500 s, 1/1000 s, 1/2000 s, 1/4000 s, 1/8000 s

As we move down the list, each shutter speed is halving the previous value, and so allowing half of the light to get through. Each jump here is thus decreasing the exposure by one stop.

You will realise that mathematically halfing the numbers would give the following sequence:

1/4 s, 1/8 s, 1/16 s, 1/32 s, 1/64 s, 1/128 s, 1/256 s, 1/512 s, 1/1024 s

The numbers in bold are rounded to whole numbers to make it easier to quickly identify doubling, quadrupling, halving etc….

 

As one-stop is quite a large usually the shutter speed will be divided into ⅓ -stop intervals. The following is the usual sequence indicated on the camera:

4 s, 3.2 s, 2.5 s,
2 s, 1.6 s, 1.3 s,
1 s, 0.8 s, 0.6 s,
0.5 s, 0.4 s, 0.3 s,
1/4 s, 1/5 s, 1/6 s
1/8 s
, 1/10 s, 1/13 s,
1/15 s,1/20 s, 1/25 s,
1/30 s, 1/40 s, 1/50 s,
1/60 s,1/80 s, 1/100 s,
1/125 s
, 1/160 s, 1/200 s,
1/250 s
, 1/320 s, 1/400 s,
1/500 s, 1/640 s, 1/800 s,
1/1000 s, 1/1250 s, 1/1600 s,
1/2000 s, 1/2500 s, 1/3200 s,
1/4000 s, 1/5000 s, 1/6400 s,
1/8000 s

Moving  3 steps forward or backward will result in an exposure change of one-stop.

 

Shutter Speed to Adjust Exposure

If the shutter is open for twice as long, then it will allow for twice as much light to pass through.

Shutter Speed Exposure Change
1/1000 s → 1/500 s +1 stop (2× light)
1/250 s → 1/500 s −1 stop (½ light)
1/20 s → 1/80 s –2 stops (¼× light)
1/60 s → 1/15 s +2 stops (4× light)

 

Some Typical Shutter Speeds

Situation Typical Speed Reason
Sports 1/1000 s Freeze fast motion
Portrait 1/125 s Freeze human motion
Night/Stars 10–30 s Gather lots of light
Waterfalls (silky effect) 1/2 – 2 s Intentional blur

These are obviously guidelines and exact shutter speeds will vary depending on other factors such as aperture, focal length of lens, etc..

 

 

Pixels

 

 

 

ISO

In cameras (digital or film), ISO refers to the sensitivity of the film or image sensor to light.

ISO stands for the International Organisation for Standardisation.

They chose ISO from the Greek word isos meaning equal, to represent standardisation across languages.

It’s pronounced eye-so, but photographers often say I-S-O too..

 

A lower ISO number (e.g., ISO 100) = less sensitivity to light → you’ll need more light (or longer exposure) for a good image.

A higher ISO number (e.g., ISO 1600, ISO 3200) = more sensitivity to light → you can shoot in darker conditions or use faster shutter speeds.

Example: increasing ISO from 100 to 200 lets you halve the light needed (or double the shutter speed) for the same exposure.

While higher ISO makes shooting in low light easier, it comes at a cost: noise (digital grain) appears in the image.

Lower ISO usually yields cleaner images with less noise—but you must compensate by letting in more light (via slower shutter or wider aperture).

Sensor size and quality matter: a larger sensor or a newer high-end camera may handle high ISO better (less noise) than a small sensor budget camera

Focal Length

Recall that focal length of a lens is the distance between the optical centre of the lens and the image formed from parallel light rays (i.e. object is at a very far (infinite) distance away).

The focal length of a camera lens is the distance (in mm) between the lens’s optical centre and the camera sensor when the lens is focused at infinity.

The focal length of a lens has a big effect on the properties of an image captured by the camera:

Property Effect
Field of View (FoV) Short focal length → wide view
Long focal length → narrow view
Magnification Longer focal length → higher magnification
Perspective Longer focal length compresses distances
Shorter focal length exaggerates depth
Depth of Field (DoF) Short focal length has larger DoF
Long focal length shallower DoF
(for the same framing & aperture setting)
Lens type Focal length Visual effect
Ultra-wide 10–24 mm Very wide view, architecture, landscapes
Wide 24–35 mm Street, environmental portraits
Standard 35–70 mm Natural human perspective
Telephoto 70–200 mm Portraits, sports
Super-telephoto 200 mm+ Wildlife, distant subjects

The above table is for full-frame cameras. For ASP-C cameras we would need to take the crop factor into account.

If a lens has only one focal length it is referred to as a prime lens.

If the lens allows the focal length to be changed the lens is referred to as a zoom lens.

 

Camera Sensors

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Water Bucket Analogy
Think of each pixel on a camera sensor as a tiny light bucket.

  • Light (photons) = raindrops
  • Sensor pixels = buckets
  • Exposure = how long and how wide the bucket is left open
  • ISO = how much we amplify the water level measured in each bucket after it’s filled.
Photography Concept Bucket Analogy Physics Behind It
Aperture (ƒ-number) Size of the funnel over the bucket Controls how fast photons arrive — larger aperture = more photons per second (↑ light intensity)
Shutter Speed How long the bucket is left out in the rain Exposure time — total number of photons collected ∝ intensity × time
ISO How much we “amplify” or “stretch” the measured water level after the bucket is filled Electronic gain applied to the pixel voltage (signal) after photon capture

 

 

Condition Diagram/Photo Description
Low ISO (ISO 100) Small bucket fills slowly, but measurement is clean Good in bright light, low noise
High ISO (ISO 3200) Same water level, but measured with “amplified scale” → appears full, but with more noise (splash, error) Bright but grainy image
Overexposure Bucket overflows — sensor saturation → clipped highlights
Underexposure Barely any water → not enough signal → amplified noise dominates

 

 

 

Further Sections I may add at some point…

  • polarisation
  • motion blur
  • image stabilisation
  • rolling shutter
  • white balance & colour temperature
  • sensor science
  • exposure triangle

 

 

 

2025 Physics Lessons